Monday, 22 August 2011

Cookery lesson from an old fart, number one

If you want to do any serious medieval cooking (I have discovered), then you will need to know how to make 2 basic sauces or 'stocks' - Almond Milk and Verjuice.

Verjuice has made something of a comeback recently as a health food fad drink, but the difference is that the modern day fanatics do not allow the pressed juice to ferment for a couple of days before using it.

In the coming weeks, you may be as surprised as I was to learn that cooking in medieval England involved ingredients which I thought did not arrive in this country until the Asian corner shops appeared, and most of them can now be bought in a supermarket, including Galangal - a root from the Cypress tree which I though was limited in use to the Far East, and now pretty much is.

Ginger, almonds, and stork (the bird, not the margarine) were commonplace ingredients in 700 year-old cooking. The only really exotic ingredient in those days was pepper, hence some land rents being paid in peppercorns as a valuable (not a worthless token) and rare commodity in many cases.

The greatest gift that the Venerable Bede left to his fellow monks upon his death was his collection of spices, which included items like coriander, cumin and cardomon - I never knew they were in England before about 1750.

The Romans introduced cherries, anchovy sauce and rabbits - things that I for one take for granted these days.

I will also be giving all of you who have a glut of quince this year, some interesting alternatives as to how to use them. Quince, by the way, was only brought to this country in the mid 17th century. Well I'll be blowed, thanks to Maxime McKendry.

Click on the image if you want to read it.

7 comments:

  1. The Romans also grew garlic here and of course vines for wine. The sad thing is that English culinary history enriched by all the ancient trading of our island empire and later the Norman conquest, was steadily lost after two world wars. I have a 200 year old cookery book that contains staggeringly rich and abundant recipes including such delights as native abricots. Of course these were the foods of the rich and landed gentry. My own ancestors may not have been so lucky but I bet they enjoyed oysters - once only a food fit for the poor.

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  2. There are so many of us that are back to serving the wonderful roots, spices and organic vegetables that have been part of the diet for centuries, if not millinniums. I don't know if you have such a thing as the Food Network, (American TV) but it has taught us so much about the natural (not canned or frozen) global way of life. I am all for convenience, but because I have grandchildren, I am also for the purity of food. I am looking forward to more of your posts on this subject.

    So glad you are back from vacation. I really missed your surly and fun posts. You are always interesting.

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  3. Don't take offense at the word "surly". I say it because it is what makes you one to read.

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  4. Elegancemaison may be amused to hear that the Romans also produced a form of foie gras whilst in Britain. They force-fed chickens with wheat, rather than ducks with maize.

    I'm looking forward to your Quince piece. My tree is audibly groaning!

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  5. p.s. Some years ago, one of my neighbours asked if she could have some unripe grapes to make 'verjus'. I didn't ask what she was going to do with it... maybe I should have.

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  6. Yes, Quince recipes sound intriguing.

    The hedgerows are full of berries of some sort or other. Be interesting to see if there are any recipes for foraged fruits...

    I have a Cypress in the garden that need to come down. Yum, yum!

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  7. There was an 18th century rule of thumb to determine how many poor people were in certain areas, Elegance, and that was to count how many Oyster Bars were in that area. These days we use charity shops for the same indicator.

    Thanks, Maybe - I wish it had been a holiday.

    I think I may have over-estimated the amount of quince recipes in this book. This morning I looked again, and saw that I had read 'quiche' for 'quince' in the darkness last night.

    I can just here your poisoned family complaining over the coming months, Chris - "Not Cypress Tree again?!"

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