Saturday, 7 October 2017

The solitary consumption of marrow


Coffee on the Porch has the same attitude toward collecting kitchen and tableware as me. Random and eclectic.

This marrow-spoon was an almost impulse purchase after I had gone to an antique shop a couple of weeks ago, having made up my mind to buy a sold silver one dating from 1740 for £140. I  did not see it in the window so I enquired, and was told it had sold a matter of hours beforehand.

So I bought this 1890, silver-plated one as a consolation to myself.

Eating the marrow from roasted veal bones has begun to come back into fashion since the BSE crisis a few years ago. There is a restaurant in Spitalfields which specialises in them, and they buy their bones from the famous London meat-market in the same borough, where they have been sold for hundreds of years.

I have only eaten roast marrow once, and it is extremely delicious. I placate any misgivings about eating calf by reasoning with myself that if I felt that strongly about it, I would not drink cow's milk.

The design of these spoons was settled on by the Romans. They may have fallen out of production for a few hundred years during the Dark Ages, but then manufacture in places like London, Sheffield and Birmingham (where this one was made by the Barker Brothers) began again around the late medieval times. I sound like an expert, but I am just guessing.

They - like knives, forks and other spoons - are tableware, so I really should have a set of six. If I don't find a set at an auction, I will quietly and unhurriedly acquire five others as a mis-match. I do not intend this quest to turn into an obsession.

I will then order the sawing of about twelve , six inch lengths of marrowbone and invite four sickly and elderly invalids around for dinner. It should be a fun night.

34 comments:

  1. Are you sure about the obsession and I think I would take a pass on your dinner. Interesting though.

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    1. Neither am I, but I have learned to keep them simmering rather than full boil. Good job I don't have money.

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  2. Could I be one of those eldely dinner guests Tom ? I love a bit of bone marrow and onions !
    I now feel that I have been really rude, inviting myself to dinner, so I'll research the Spitalfields restaurant ... is it the St John or the Hawksmoor ? XXXX

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    1. St. John. They sometimes have squirrel on the menu too. I've never heard of the Hawksmoor. Sounds interesting - dark old London, as in Peter Ackroyd.

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    2. The last - and first - time I ate there, I had a mountain of duck hearts on a bed of salad. Too many to count. It is self-consciously un-fastidious.

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    3. 'Nose to Tail', skipping the arsehole on the way.

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  3. I hope I am to be incoluded in that four!

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    1. I hope that you won't be sickly enough to qualify, Weave.

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  4. I recall, as a child, watching my dad scoop the marrow out of a beef bone (it had been a roast), and smearing it on bread. He loved it. The thought of it made me kind of nauseous. Each to their own. -Jenn

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    1. We had bread and dripping here. The poured-off fat and jelly from meat roasted on the bone. I ate it all the time, and it is just another part of the animal which it would be disrespectful and somewhat childishly fussy to discard, I think. If you eat meat, then eat everything that is edible.

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  5. My Moroccan friend takes the bone and up-ends it to his mouth and drinks the bone marrow.

    I thought you were going to buy that spoon several weeks ago, the one that got away. What happened?

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    1. It got away weeks ago. Have I already shown this spoon? If I have, then I am getting worse.

      As far as drinking marrow goes, I prefer dry to wet, which is just a childish faddy thing.

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    2. You asked me what I thought about the price one night. I said I thought it was a bargain and you should get it.

      As for Moroccan friend, he used to drain the bones at the end of a meal, fished out of the tagine. He said I was missing the best bit of the meal in not joining him.

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    3. He was probably right, and it was probably goat.

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    4. I have no doubt he was right.

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  6. I'm sorry you missed the solid silver one, but how nice that you can be so easily consoled.

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    1. I also felt saved that I didn't spend that much money, which is a consolation in itself.

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    2. P.S. I really like Sara's smiling face. That photo is great. As I said, she really reminds me of someone, but I cannot think who.

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    3. I would be flattered to be thought at all like her.
      She's quite something.

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    4. Yes she is. You are lucky to have such lovely children. She does remind me of you, truly. It is an openness, uninhibited sense of humour and deeper than skin beauty which shines out.

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    5. Mind you, I am not suggesting her - or your - beauty can only be found after flaying, you understand. It is also on the surface for superficial old men like me.

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    6. Good think you added that after thought. Our friendship was on the line for two minutes.

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  7. We eat a typical dish in Verona called Bollito con PearĂ . PearĂ  is a sauce made with beef marrow, bread crumbs, beef and hen stock, black pepper, olive oil and parmesan.
    I might qualify for the dinner, Tom :)
    Greetings Maria x

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    1. I have to get the other five first, but you're on the list.

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    2. You'll have to find them real fast I think. I hope the others on the list are fun to be with so I can die laughing.
      X

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    3. Come on. What's going on Maria? You are not considering declining my as yet undated invitation are you?

      If you like, you can email me at stephen@sbushell.co.uk

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  8. My son-in-law has one or two implements for obtaining roasted marrow. One may be for the purpose of fending off anyone considering purloining the other.

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    1. That would be a spoon and dagger set then? Maybe not the ideal Christening present.

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  9. What if we each were to bring a marrow spoon as a gift? Then we wouldn't have to wait for you to find the other five.

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  10. Winckling the marrow out of roasted beef bones was one of my real pleasures as a child. These days I can't afford such roasts, although I probably could afford just the bones.

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    1. Somehow I think of digging out marrow bones as a taste acquired with age, but you probably had a more educated childhood than most.

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